In February of 1997, Western Kentucky took a fascinating step back in time, when 29 elk were shipped in stock trailers for relocation from Parks, Canada to the 170,000-acre Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area (LBL). Not seen in the state since the early 1800s, the elk were released into more than 700 acres of restored prairie habitat typical of a 1700s grassland, where they joined a herd of buffalo in the LBL's Elk & Bison Prairie.

Kathy Harper, Tennessee Valley Authority's (TVA) communications specialist at the LBL, witnessed the elk release. "It was electrifying seeing them come out of the trailers," she recalled recently. "Some would emerge and just stand there, while others came out and took off running."

But the wildlife-fenced prairie is only one of a myriad of attractions at this mecca where nature is king.

Encapsulated by Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley and straddling the Kentucky-Tennessee state line, this lush, 40-mile-long peninsula was created by President Kennedy in 1963, its existing farms and towns taken by eminent domain. Thanks to a rectangular-shaped moonshine still, a type of condenser that allowed rapid production, and a healthy corn crop, LBL was once known as the "Moonshine Capital of the World" and white lightnin' was the drink of choice in the town of Golden Pond.

But the last whiskey raid was made in 1967. Today, you can learn about black holes, white dwarves and constellations visible in the current sky at the Golden Pond Visitor Center and Planetarium, near the original site of that town.

Annually, two million people visit this recreation and education area now owned by the federal government and developed and managed by the TVA. In addition to hiking, backpacking, bicycling, horseback riding, camping, fishing, hunting, boating, picnicking and observing wildlife, LBL offers terrific educational programs and special events.

For years, a friend of mine and her mother have spent an annual week at LBL, primarily at The Nature Station, an environmental education center nestled in the woods between Honker and Hematite Lakes. They go to learn about raptors and to see Bald Eagles; seven pairs nest here. But you also can come face to face with a coyote, bask in the moonlight in a canoe, rent a mountain bike, ogle a spectacular sunset or perhaps catch a glimpse of the shy red wolf.

At The Nature Station, kids can prowl for owls and hear glorious stories, while parents get the lowdown on wildlife gardening and shooting wildlife with a camera. Special events include Wetlands Celebration Weekend (May 29 through June 3) and Howl-O-Ween (October 29).

Steeped in history, The Homeplace -- 1850 is a working 19th-century farm, where costumed interpreters make you grateful that you don't still have to churn butter, plow the back 40 with horses or shear sheep to make your winter clothing. But it's fun to watch it being done and to wander around 16 original and restored log structures.

Travel back in time, and learn about old ways at the Homeplace's annual River Sounds Pickin' Party (June 12-13), the Harvest Celebration and Trades Fair (September 18) or at its frequent workshops and demonstrations like folk medicine, heirloom gardening and quilting.

Streak into the future, as Star Trek's own Captain Jean-Luc Picard, a.k.a. Patrick Stewart, narrates a fascinating tour through our solar system in "The Voyager Encounters," at LBL's 81- seat, 40-foot-diameter dome Planetarium. The structure is also home to the Western Kentucky Amateur Astronomers and anyone can attend a monthly meeting for stargazing and celestial chats.

Though some of its facilities are closed during January and February, the winter needn't be a deterrent to exploring this vast outdoor treasure. Seasonal discounts add to the appeal, with indoor programs when the weather's foul.

But I discovered that off-weather can be a positive one stormy January morning, when I was treated to viewing the entire elk herd at close range for a good 20 minutes. While rain pelted our car and thunder cracked nearby, bucks, calves and does, their distinctive white rumps stark against the dark winter landscape, quietly nibbled on prairie grasses no more than 20 feet away.

Since its initial relocation, the herd has grown to 43 and shares the developing plains land with 63 buffalo. Early morning (I arrived at 7:30 a.m. for my magnificent sighting) and late afternoon provide the most likely good viewing of these animals. Patience can pay off. Open dawn till dusk, the Elk-Bison Prairie is a three-mile drive-through, with three well-presented interactive stops explaining the prairie's people, plants and wildlife.

But that's not even close to all of LBL's delights. You can explore some 70 miles of trails at Wranglers Campground on your own horse or a rental; at a Gospel Sing, hum along with those grand old hymns your granny taught you; mud-ride to your heart's delight in the 2,500-acre Turkey Bay OHV Area or lease a houseboat for a laid-back Kentucky Lake weekend.

Then, when all that fresh air makes your stomach start growling, just hop in your vehicle and drive the woodsy road that runs straight through LBL (known as The Trace) to Grand Rivers, a resort village extending from the shores of Lake Barkley to those of Kentucky Lake. This quaint town of 300 serves up victuals to whet most any appetite.

An upscale resort, Green Turtle Bay, offers two restaurants, a slew of land and water sports, nearby shopping and a full-service marina. Smack in village center, the Lite Side Bakery & Cafe is a cozy breakfast and lunch haven for health-conscious folks who don't want to sacrifice taste for nutrition.

But if country cookin' is what you're after, put on your buffet pants (you know, the ones with the elastic waist) and sidle up to Patti's 1880's Settlement, home of Mile-High Meringue Pie (each pie contains 12 egg whites!), two-inch pork chops and home-baked bread in a flowerpot. Begun as a six-unit motel, Patti's now boasts two restaurants, five gift shops, a putt-putt course and an animal park; offers dining etiquette classes to local kids and in 1996 won Southern Living magazine's Readers' Choice Award for Favorite Small Town Restaurant.

All in all, LBL is Kentucky's answer to Yellowstone Park and if you haven't yet discovered it, it's high time you packed up the family for a long weekend in the Jackson Purchase. Phone for a schedule of events and rates (502-924-2000).

You live in one gorgeous state. Don't miss it!

Katherine Tandy Brown is a staff writer for The Lane Report.