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EXPLORING
KENTUCKY - September 2002 by Katherine Tandy Brown Where Kentucky
Began
Eighty three-year-old Mary Elizabeth Freeman laughed. She was rattling off Boyle County history as fast as I could take it in on a tour of Danvilles Constitution Square State Historic Site. Clad in a floor-length, late-1700s costume topped by a crisp white bonnet, she breathed life into every item in the Danville-Boyle County Historical Societys impressive, three-story collection that now fills the beautifully restored Watts-Bell House, a circa 1816 Flemish bond brick home. Mary Elizabeth tells visitors the stories theyre not going to read in history books, said Brenda Willoughby, historic site and museum manager. They get the real historic inside scoop! And what history this park has seen. Chosen as Kentuckys first seat of government in 1785, Danville built a meetinghouse, courthouse and jail to manage the growing territory. Town citizens formed the Political Club, which recognized the need for a convention to discuss statehood. At the Constitution Square courthouse, where the Supreme Court of the District of Kentucky met, 10 such conventions took place between 1784 and 1792, the year the state constitution was drafted at the final meeting. On June 1, Kentucky became the fifteenth state in the union, naming Revolutionary War hero Isaac Shelby as its first (and later, fifth) governor. In the late 1930s, Danville native Emma Weisiger donated this chunk of historic downtown land to the city as a park in memory of her brother. In 1942, the Works Progress Administration rebuilt the log cabins that had been the meetinghouse, courthouse and jail. Soon Weisiger Park became a part of the Kentucky State Parks system and was renamed Constitution Square. In conjunction with the Ephraim McDowell House across the street, it became the first federal urban renewal project in the U.S. These days, folks can wander through the Watts-Bells museum for a nominal fee; peruse the Governors Circle, where each of the commonwealths leaders is remembered beneath a tall bronze replica of the state seal; and take a self-guided tour through most of the tree-shaded parks historic and reproduction structures. In 1784, the Reverend David Rice directed the building of the original meetinghouse, where his flock became the first Presbyterian congregation in Kentucky. In addition to the replica log cabins, a number of beautifully-restored, original historic structures are scattered throughout the quiet area, available to tour. A pre-1792 post office, the first west of the Allegheny Mountains, commemorates the first mail delivery in November of 92. Once rental properties known as Fishers Row, two 1817 two-story brick homes now house the Wilderness Trace Art League and Gallery on the Square, where the upscale works of 50-plus Kentucky artisans are for sale. Dont miss the gallerys exquisite Ukranian batik eggs hand-painted by Dr. Rob Rettie, a Danville pediatrician. Nearby, the 1820 Alban Goldsmith House once was the residence of a physician who in 1809 assisted Dr. Ephraim McDowell, a pioneer in abdominal surgery, in performing the first ovariotomy. These days, the handsome brick structure is home to Constitution Squares Kentucky Craft Marketing Museum Store, an award-winning shop with an array of handcrafts and educational goodies intriguing enough to lure locals in for holiday shopping. Though not open to the public, the first brick schoolhouse west of the Alleghenies is also on site. And right next door stands Danvilles first official watering hole. Built in 1875, Graysons Tavern often hosted the Political Club of Danville, the first political society in the West, and its lively statehood debates. The white wooden structure, the towns first tavern, has been beautifully restored. Upstairs, among other artifacts, you can see the chair where Isaac Shelby died while at his estate, Travellers Rest. (Genealogy buffs can visit the Isaac Shelby Cemetery State Historic Site there, just south of Danville.)
At Constitution Square history is literally at your fingertips. Awhile back, the head of Furman Universitys history department and his wife were visiting, the tour guide recalled. He said he was amazed at the quantity and quality of things we have and at the fact theyre out in the open for people to see and are not behind glass. Open year-round, the park welcomes groups. With prior notification, those with 10 or more can have a guided tour. For school groups Willoughby will stage a scavenger hunt, where kids will learn history despite themselves and have a ball in the process. With its tiny, dirt-floored cell, the jail is a favorite with youngsters, and also offers a fascinating county pictorial history from 1784 to 1842. In the past year, 67,000 visitors traveled from all over the world to see where Kentucky began. Many, said Willoughby, are surprised at how well the buildings are preserved and that the squares story is still told after so many years. They also love to come and walk through the park, sit and have a picnic and experience our rich history, she continued. Theyre taken by the beauty of it being right downtown. Each year on the third weekend of September, this green space is a-bustle with activity during the Constitution Square Festival. This years celebration, the 24th annual, will feature living history, museum tours, rafts of juried arts and crafts, colonial games for kids, regional music, food booths and a terrific 50-cent cup of coffee served by the Historical Society. The crafts are of such high quality that many folks start ticking off their Christmas lists in September. Next June 1, Constitution Square will start a new tradition when it hosts a birthday party for the state on the parks first official Statehood Day. Were the birthplace of Kentucky, said Willoughby. We were the first seat of government. We were the capital for three days. Its important we get the word out, especially to our young people. For tasty picnic fare, the word about Burkes Bakery, right across the street from the park, has been out for years. As one employee said, Were cheap, were friendly and were a great place to pick up lunch! Just follow the aroma of fresh-baking bread to ogle the possibilities homemade chicken salad or pimiento cheese sandwiches on salt rising bread, dressed eggs and thick cream pies. Or if youre up for a leg-stretcher, take a 10-minute walk through downtown Danville to The Tea Leaf, where reservations are suggested for lunch or tea. Run by retired schoolteachers Jane Stevens and Rosemary Hamblin for 14 years, the homey eatery is a step back in Southern time, with a Friday brunch of frozen fruit salad, cheese grits, ham biscuit, a veggie and sweet iced tea. The Tea Leafs warm-from-the-oven blonde brownies are irresistible. May as well succumb. And while youre at it, may as well put your feet up overnight at Twin Hollies Bed and Breakfast, an 1833 antebellum home on the National Register of Historic Places, with cool woodlands and a formal garden. Be sure to take a Danville walking tour to discover why Time magazine named it one of Americas 10 most successful small towns. Find out more at www.danville-ky.com.
Katherine Tandy
Brown is a staff writer for The Lane Report. |
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